- The count
- 25 houses at Paris Fashion Week, spring/summer 2027 shows, September 28 to October 6, 2026 · nine ways of wearing jewelry · every entry marked confirmed or estimate
- Shown most
- Jewelry on shoes, or worn as the straps of a dress: 11 houses
- Next
- Earrings to the collarbone or larger: 10 houses · brooches · layered necklaces · wide cuffs · cultured, natural or imitation pearls: 7 each
- Shown least
- Textured, unpolished metal: 2 houses, both estimates
Eight houses put jewelry on shoes: Dior, Chanel, Saint Laurent, Loewe, Dries Van Noten, Isabel Marant, Rick Owens and, by Harper’s Bazaar’s account, Balenciaga. At Givenchy, Louis Vuitton and Victoria Beckham, it served as the straps of a dress.
How the index works
The index covers 25 of the houses that showed womenswear in Paris for spring/summer 2027, between September 28 and October 6, 2026, from Dior and Chanel to Rick Owens and Courrèges. The official calendar of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode lists 101 houses for that week, so the index covers about a quarter of them. How many houses each women’s week has listed since 2023 is in our count of the calendar.
A gesture here is a way of wearing jewelry that a review or a photograph can point to: one earring, a brooch on a cardigan, a chain in place of a strap. A house enters a gesture’s row when its own words or a publication says its spring/summer 2027 Paris runway showed it, or, for six entries, when our reading of its runway photographs does. Guests, ad campaigns and other seasons are left out.
Every entry carries one of two marks. Confirmed means the house put it in its own words, in show notes, a press release, its website, a caption on its official Instagram or the description of its YouTube video, or two independent publications described it, with a reprint taken once. Estimate means a single publication, or our own reading of runway photographs. Each of the 61 house-and-gesture pairs was checked against its sources on October 13, 2026, every quote word for word.
The nine gestures, ranked
Jewelry on shoes or as straps leads either way; read only the confirmed column, and brooches climb to second place, ahead of the big earrings.
| Gesture | Houses of 25 | Share | Confirmed | Estimate |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jewelry worn on shoes or as garment straps | 11 | 44% | Dior, Chanel, Givenchy, Saint Laurent, Loewe, Dries Van Noten, Isabel Marant, Rick Owens | Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, Victoria Beckham |
| Earrings to the collarbone or larger | 10 | 40% | Dior, Givenchy, Saint Laurent, Dries Van Noten, Chloé, Isabel Marant | Celine, Schiaparelli, Acne Studios, Zimmermann |
| Brooch pinned to clothes or shoes | 7 | 28% | Chanel, Saint Laurent, Dries Van Noten, Schiaparelli, Isabel Marant, Acne Studios, Balenciaga | — |
| Pearls | 7 | 28% | Dior, Chanel, Valentino, Celine, Junya Watanabe | Dries Van Noten, Acne Studios |
| Necklaces layered at different lengths | 7 | 28% | Valentino, The Row, Dries Van Noten | Dior, Celine, Acne Studios, Junya Watanabe |
| Wide cuff or bangle | 7 | 28% | Givenchy, Schiaparelli | Hermès, Celine, Acne Studios, Zimmermann, Courrèges |
| Choker | 6 | 24% | Louis Vuitton | Givenchy, Hermès, Sacai, Ann Demeulemeester, Miu Miu |
| One earring or a mismatched pair | 4 | 16% | Dior, Givenchy | Dries Van Noten, Chloé |
| Textured, not polished, metal surface | 2 | 8% | — | Chanel, Schiaparelli |
Dries Van Noten turns up in six of the nine rows, more than any other house. Stella McCartney is the one house in none.
Shoes, and straps
The shoes carried most of it. Saint Laurent’s shoe designer, Corrado De Biase, “wanted to make the shoes into jewelry”, in the words of WWD’s Footwear News, and the sandals came with “an upper with just metallic chains and stones, no fabric in sight”. At Loewe, a plain black strappy heel was hung with what Harper’s Bazaar called “a charm bracelet”, keys, whistles and berries among the charms. Rick Owens traded the platform boots he usually prefers for “strappy sandals dripping with what looked like jumbles of crystal necklaces yanked out of a jewelry drawer”, as Vogue Runway put it. Dries Van Noten said it plainest, in its own caption on October 3: “Brooches, necklaces and charms become part of the clothes, the shoes, and the story they tell.” How each of the eight dressed the feet, and how an anklet goes with it, is in is jewelry on shoes a trend for 2027.
As for the straps, Givenchy’s own account says “jewellery extends into space, with fabric suspended from arabesques of wire”, and The Impression followed one dress “suspended from a single piece of brass bent around the figure”.
The rest of the list
Four of the seven brooch houses named brooches in their own words. Dries Van Noten did it twice, in the caption above and on its show page, which lists “A red lip, a dazzling brooch, a cinched belt”. Schiaparelli’s notes describe “a menagerie of “spirit animals”: earrings, cuffs, and brooches shaped like horses, dolphins, pigs, dogs, cats, and spiders”. Isabel Marant put blazers “over brooch-pinned swimsuits”, and Balenciaga’s Instagram names a “Getaria Brooch”. The rest of that show’s jewelry is in our article on it.
L’Officiel USA wrote that Dior’s beaded earrings “extended beyond the collarbone”, and Isabel Marant’s notes name “Chandelier earrings and necklaces made out of shells or seed-like beads”. A single earring, or a pair that does not match, stands lower in the count, yet two houses named it themselves. Dior’s account says “cascading earrings introduce asymmetry”, and Givenchy’s caption names “Rainbow Drop asymmetrical earrings”. How to wear it is covered in one earring, or two that don’t match, and whether it will last in will the mismatched earrings trend last.
Pearls appear in Celine’s own text, “Accessories from pearl necklaces to headpieces”, and at Chanel, British Vogue found them “cascading in drop earrings, imagined as demure studs”.
Five of the seven cuff houses rest on a single publication or a photograph, among them a bangle WWD put at “the size of a cantaloupe” at Celine and cuffs Sewelo saw worn “unusually high on the arm, closer to the elbow than the wrist” at Zimmermann. Chokers are thinner still. Louis Vuitton’s “elaborately wired chokers resembling mechanical collars” are the only ones two publications describe; at Sacai, Ann Demeulemeester and Miu Miu, the choker rests on runway photographs alone. How close a choker should sit is in is the choker back for 2027. How to layer necklaces of different lengths without tangling is in layering necklaces.
What the count does not show
The index counts nine ways of wearing jewelry, not every earring or necklace on the runway, and it counts houses. One pair of jeweled sandals puts a house in that row as firmly as a whole show of them. Apart from the pearls and the metal of the texture row, no row says what a piece was made of. A closer look at the metal itself, frame by frame in 120 runway photographs, is in textured, hammered or polished: which jewelry is in style for 2027. And runway photographs were read for some houses, not all, so a gesture seen only in photographs can be missing for a house whose photographs were not read.
To cite it: Taton Paris Jewelry Index, spring/summer 2027, tatonjewelry.com, as of October 13, 2026. The data is in taton-paris-jewelry-index-ss27.csv, with a source address for every text it rests on.
If you want to try it
The easiest gesture to borrow is one earring. Our single earrings come one at a time, and the Gravity Mono Earring is a cultured pearl set in sterling silver, with fine chains dropping about three inches. Nothing here goes on a shoe; the nearest thing is the Serpent Anklet, a sterling silver snake chain beside a narrow textured one, which sits loose above the ankle. There are no brooches or wide cuffs in the shop. Texture, the thing this shop selects for, has the thinnest row in the index; here it is a choice of ours, not a borrowed trend.