- The show
- Saint Laurent spring/summer 2027 by Anthony Vaccarello · Trocadéro, Paris · September 29, 2026 · 59 looks · his last for the house
- The jewelry
- Big chandelier earrings, jeweled turbans, jeweled brooches as buttons, sandals built from metal chains and semiprecious stones
- To wear it now
- One big earring in a warm, sun-colored metal
At Saint Laurent’s spring/summer 2027 show, brooches were buttons and the sandals were built like jewelry, from metal chains and semiprecious stones. The house’s own text is about a color more than about any piece: it says Anthony Vaccarello “explores the transformative power of gold”.
In the house’s words
Saint Laurent’s own words for the collection sit under the show video on the house’s YouTube channel, posted on September 29, 2026. They open with a line of Vaccarello’s: “A light shines all the more brightly because we know it cannot be held. What passes sometimes leaves more light than what remains.” Then comes the subject: “For Summer 2027, Anthony Vaccarello explores the transformative power of gold, a color deeply rooted in the history of Saint Laurent and beloved by Monsieur Saint Laurent himself.” The text hands the color to the fabrics, from lamé and organza to brocade and metallic cotton, and gives jewelry a single clause: “intricate embroideries and jewelry bring an artisanal dimension to the silhouettes.” It also describes the ending: “As the show draws to a close, gold gives way to black, absorbing the light it once reflected.”
The show notes went back to the founder, with a line of Yves Saint Laurent’s: “It’s a magical color, when reflecting a woman, it’s the color of the sun.” In the house’s release the color let Vaccarello “explore the power of repetition, as he has previously done through silhouette”. The release named its variations: deep, Byzantine, pale, Renaissance, matte, Art Deco, burnished, and “modernist, almost Brutalist”.
Saint Laurent on Instagram: Women’s Summer 27 by Anthony Vaccarello
A note, and the news ten days later
The show took place on the evening of September 29 at the Trocadéro, under three large chandeliers, with the Eiffel Tower lit behind the runway; FHCM, the federation that organizes Paris Fashion Week, counted fifty-nine looks. Vaccarello gave no interviews. He sent journalists flowers and a note, which Vogue printed as: “I’ve had this collection in mind for a long time, and finally felt that this was the right moment to bring it to light. It’s a very personal one for me, charged with emotion, so this time I’d rather not say too much and let you experience all its shades.”
Reviewers that week read the evening as a farewell. Vogue’s review opened “It looks like goodbye at Saint Laurent”, and Dazed asked in its headline whether Vaccarello had just bid farewell to the house. On October 9, Kering, the group that owns Saint Laurent, published the announcement: “Saint Laurent today announces the departure of Anthony Vaccarello, who led the House's creative direction since 2016.” The house, it added, “will soon announce its new creative leadership”. The spring 2027 collection marked his tenth anniversary at Saint Laurent.
The jewelry, piece by piece
The house’s text names no single piece; the reviewers in the room did:
- On the ears and the head. “As always, Vaccarello still believes in big earrings”, Vogue wrote: hulking chandelier earrings, and bejeweled turbans.
- On the clothes. Among the black looks at the end, Anja Rubik wore a black velvet wrap dress “with shimmering jeweled brooches as buttons”, and black velvet suits were studded with crystal buttons, “like medals of honour”.
- On the feet. The house’s shoe designer, Corrado De Biase, wanted to “make the shoes into jewelry”: sandals whose upper had “just metallic chains and stones, no fabric in sight”. The stones, amethyst, lapis lazuli, tiger’s eye and green jade, came from Goossens, a historical supplier of Saint Laurent. On some styles the chains crossed the toes to meet a large jewel at the center of the vamp; other heels carried brooches and chains, and one style stood on S-shaped snakes.
The rest of Paris
Saint Laurent’s warm metal was one answer among several: “There is no single metal that wins Paris for Spring 2027”, as Sewelo put it after the shows, and Givenchy hung enormous chrome spheres from the ears. At Chanel on October 5, the jewelry followed the house’s own symbol, the bird, from swallow earrings to buttons (what Chanel showed for spring 2027).
If you want to try it
The part of this show that is easiest to borrow is one big earring in a warm, sun-colored metal. Our Maillard Stone Hoops are gold-tone brass hoops set with tiger’s eye, one of the stones on those Saint Laurent sandals; there are more in gold-tone, and what the word gold-tone means has its own page.