- The show
- Dries Van Noten spring/summer 2027 by Julian Klausner · Paris · September 30, 2026 · 60 looks
- The jewelry
- Brooches almost everywhere: swallows and flower clusters on cardigans, pins on satin straps, charms on shoes; big mismatched earrings; layered beads and two-tone strands
- To wear it now
- Close a cardigan with a brooch, or pin one to a scarf or a bag
In the house’s words
The house’s text for the collection, on its website, is signed by Julian Klausner, Dries Van Noten’s creative director. It opens with a scene: “An actress, after a day on set, takes the streets back to reality. The movie score lingers in her mind. The joy of dressing, the characters we write for ourselves, creating an illusion to captivate. When do we feel glamorous?” Then comes the brooch: “Dressing up for yourself, playing in front of the mirror, trying things on, getting into a role. Discovering a different facet. A red lip, a dazzling brooch, a cinched belt - so little is needed to spark that feeling.”
Under the show video, posted on the house’s YouTube channel on October 1, Klausner adds: “These are things I had on my mind while working on this collection. I kept thinking about glamour, in quite an innocent way: the desire to feel done up, simply because you want to. And how charming that is.” He told WWD he loves a brooch “because you can kind of glamorize any old thing in your wardrobe”.
The show
It was an afternoon show of sixty looks, and it began with “the unmistakable sound of a woman’s heels clicking down a street”, car horns and laughter behind it, as Nicole Phelps heard it for Vogue. The models walked fast around a vast white space, “as if they were late for appointments”, to a soundtrack by the Italian film composer Piero Umiliani. Some of the prints were posters for films that were never shot, with titles Klausner and his studio made up: “Lacquer and Lace”, “Vipère”, “Ruffle Her Feathers”.
The jewelry, from the ears down
On the ears: playful mismatched earrings, oversized and jewel-encrusted, in contrasting colors and shapes, and large stone earrings.
At the neck, two-tone strands of natural, cultured or imitation pearls (no one said which) lay over two layered cardigans. The coat that opened the show came with layers of colored beads, and through the show costume pieces and glass beads were piled on.
Dries Van Noten on Instagram: Stripes, polos and printed T-shirts bring a sense of ease alongside more formal attitudes.
On the clothes, the brooches took over. In WWD’s words, “Colorful pins sparkled from the thick straps of satin tops, while tiny adornments that resembled fishing flies glittered from the tailored jackets, and shorter bomber styles.” Brooches and charms were stitched to shoes as well, so each look seemed pulled together from a dressing-up box.
How to wear it
- Close a cardigan with one. In the show, wool V-neck cardigans were “secured with sparkly brooches in the shape of swallows or clusters of flowers”.
- Nip a waist. Klausner used belts and brooches to gently nip the waists of sack dresses and polo shirts.
- Take it off the jacket. A brooch does not have to wait for a jacket: pin one to a scarf, a handbag or the shoulder of a coat.
Elsewhere in Paris
Dries Van Noten was not the only house with swallows this season. Chanel’s notes name “the swift and the swallow” as its bird, and camellia brooches burst from its necklines (what Chanel showed). At Saint Laurent, a dress had shimmering jeweled brooches for buttons (Saint Laurent’s spring 2027 jewelry).
If you want to try it
For the pearls in this show, our Single Cultured Pearl Studs set one freshwater cultured pearl, slightly uneven, on sterling silver, and the pearls collection has more, cultured and faux.