- The count
- 25 Paris houses, spring/summer 2027 shows, September 28 to October 6, 2026, read in their own words
- Lightness, air or movement
- 10 houses: Dior, Chanel, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Victoria Beckham, Zimmermann, Loewe, Celine, Isabel Marant, Stella McCartney
- Other ideas
- 10 houses: glamour, an antilibrary, obsession, precision and clarity, among others · 5 with no words on the idea
- For jewelry
- Pieces that hang: long earrings, chains that hold up a dress
No single idea ran through every house in Paris, but one kept coming back in their own texts. Hermès wrote “The shape of air” under an Instagram post of the collection, and Louis Vuitton’s text, published by LVMH, says the collection “embraces an ideal of lightness”. In Chanel’s notes, the atelier’s fabric development is credited with “propelling a notion of freedom through movement and lightness”.
A house counts here when its own words give lightness, air or movement to the clothes or the show. By its own words we mean its site and show notes, its group’s newsroom (LVMH publishes the texts of Dior, Louis Vuitton, Celine, Loewe and Givenchy), the description of its official YouTube video and its Instagram captions. Light in the sense of brightness, the motion of life rather than of clothes, metaphors of time or technique, and a range of fabric weights did not count. By that rule, ten of the 25 houses in the index qualify.
In the houses’ own words
LVMH titled its account of the Dior show “Fluidity and lightness prevail”, and the text goes further: “air is treated almost as a material – an inherent part of lace, silk mousseline or organza”. Hermès made a fan its motif, and “the fan sets the air in motion. A breeze slips between skin and fabric.” The description of its YouTube video adds “A sense of weightlessness takes hold.”
Hermès on Instagram: «Modular looks redefining lightness»
Victoria Beckham “explores liberation through movement”, drawing on “the radical new languages of dance that emerged in the 1920s”, with “clothes designed to move”. Nicky Zimmermann named three ideas for her season, “strength, movement and colour”, and chose the butterfly “not because of its delicacy, but because of its resilience”.
Loewe’s own page says “History is met with lightness and ease.” At Celine, volumes “allow the body to move with ease, including wide leg pants as vaporous as scarves”. Isabel Marant’s journal describes creative director Kim Bekker’s thinking as “an emphasis on airy, light dressing but grounded in pure, clear, confident shapes”, with short dresses that “move with the air”. Stella McCartney’s show, in the house’s words, translates “the beauty and movement of the underwater world through fashion”, and its organza “adds a sense of lightness”.
The other ten
Saint Laurent’s video description has Anthony Vaccarello exploring “the transformative power of gold”, a color “deeply rooted in the history of Saint Laurent”. Dries Van Noten’s Julian Klausner asked “When do we feel glamorous?”, Alessandro Michele’s note for Valentino says a show “can be seen as a sort of visual antilibrary”, and Chemena Kamali’s for Chloé speaks of “Obsessions and creative fixations, desires and attractions”. LVMH’s account of Givenchy is titled “Precision and clarity”. Schiaparelli turned to American sportswear’s “choose-your-own-adventure dressing”, Acne Studios to “A counter-narrative in which historical attire interacts with the most ubiquitous thing we wear”, and Miu Miu to “the clothing items that define a quotidian wardrobe of now”. Balenciaga called its collection “Les Coraux de la Liberté”, and Rick Owens titled the season “STONE SS27”.
Five houses’ own pages carried no words about the idea, only a shop line (The Row), a title (Junya Watanabe, Courrèges), a lookbook (Sacai) or YouTube credits (Ann Demeulemeester).
What it looks like in jewelry
The clearest case is Victoria Beckham’s: her pleated asymmetric dresses were suspended from jewelry chains “dancing around the body”, in the designer’s words as Vogue Runway reported them. Dior’s own text says that scarves draped over the shoulder and “cascading earrings introduce asymmetry”, and Isabel Marant’s notes list “Chandelier earrings and necklaces made out of shells or seed-like beads”. Of these ten, the count of 25 Paris houses confirms Dior and Isabel Marant in its row of earrings to the collarbone or larger, and Dior, Chanel, Loewe and Isabel Marant in its row of jewelry on shoes or as straps; it adds two more of the ten to each row as estimates.
How to wear it
- Pick something that hangs. A drop or one long earring moves when you walk; a stud stays still.
- Keep it light to wear. A piece that pulls at the lobe works against the idea.
- Give it room. Hair back and an open neckline let a long earring swing.
If you want to try it
One long earring is the simplest way in. Our single earrings are sold one at a time, and the Gravity Mono Earring is a cultured pearl set in sterling silver on a small hoop, with fine chains dropping about three inches below.